Welcome

Welcome to the Heart of Seville

Welcome to the beginning of our journey! You might be wondering why we’re meeting here. This spot marks the historical border of the Triana neighborhood, where we’ll spend the rest of our morning. Back in the 19th century, a massive wall surrounded old town Seville, with 13 official gates granting access. One of these gates, the Puerta de Triana, stood right in the middle of this street, connecting Triana to old town Seville.

The Vanishing Walls of Seville

You won’t see the gate or walls today because, in the 19th century, the city’s government demolished parts of them to make Seville more accessible. Only two sections of the wall remain in the northern area of old town Seville. The lower part dates back to Roman times, while the upper section was added during the Muslim period. If you visit that area, now you’ll know the history behind what you’re seeing.

Why Is It Called Triana?

Ever wondered where the name Triana comes from? It’s named after Trajan, one of two Roman emperors born in Seville. His Latin name was Traianus, which evolved into Triana. However, the neighborhood wasn’t founded during Roman times. It was established much later, in the 17th-18th century, by two key communities: sailors and gypsies.

Sailors: Adventurers of the Spanish Empire

During the height of the Spanish Empire, Seville became a bustling, wealthy hub. Every ship traveling to the Americas, Africa, or the Pacific set sail from here. Many came to Seville seeking new opportunities and became sailors. These brave souls faced long, perilous journeys without knowing if they’d ever return. Upon coming back, they sought freedom and fun. But the local government didn’t allow them inside the city walls. They were sent across the river, where only open land and a small fortress awaited them.

Gypsies: Nomads Seeking Opportunity

The largest gypsy community in Spain once lived in Jerez, just a day’s ride from Seville. Drawn by Seville’s wealth, they moved here, hoping for better lives. However, the local authorities wouldn’t let them settle within the walls. Like the sailors, they were sent to the other side of the river. By the 18th century, Triana grew rapidly, and the city officially adopted it as a neighborhood, naming it after the Roman emperor Trajan.

Crossing the Guadalquivir

Before we dive deeper into Triana, we need to cross this river. It’s called the Guadalquivir, a name rooted in Classical Arabic. The Arabs renamed the river from its Roman name, Betis, to Wadi-Al-Kibir, meaning “the big river.” This is just one example of the rich Arabic influence you’ll see today—not only in architecture but also in language and food.

The Iconic Triana Bridge

We’re about to cross the famous Triana Bridge, officially named Puente de Isabel II. Before this beautiful bridge existed, there was a pontoon bridge made of small boats chained together. This primitive crossing existed from the 12th to the 19th century. Finally, the city hired the architects who designed Paris’s Carrousel Bridge to build this masterpiece. These same architects later worked with Mr. Eiffel on the iconic Eiffel Tower. Today, the Triana Bridge is recognized throughout Spain as one of Seville’s most stunning landmarks.

Ready to Explore Triana?

We’re about to dive into the vibrant neighborhood of Triana, where history, culture, and tradition blend beautifully. Our next stop is the Triana Market, where we’ll explore the connection between Spanish gastronomy and Seville’s history. 

Alright, let’s go! As we cross the bridge and step into Triana, prepare to experience the heart and soul of Seville.

Introduction to Spanish Gastronomy and History of Seville

Before diving into the first bar, we take a moment to understand the deep connection between Spanish gastronomy and the history of Seville. This ancient city, one of the oldest in Western Europe, was founded 2800 years ago in the 9th century BC by the Tartessians, one of the 20 civilizations that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula. They named it SPAL, meaning “flat land,” a fitting description given Seville’s level terrain, just six meters above sea level.

The Tartessians and Early Mediterranean Influences

The Tartessians were influential traders who interacted with three major civilizations: the Greeks, Phoenicians, and Carthaginians. The Phoenicians founded Gadir, present-day Cádiz, 3000 years ago. They also established Xerez (now Jerez), where they introduced grapes and the art of winemaking, a craft often mistakenly attributed to the Romans.

Romans and the Spread of Wine Culture

While the Romans popularized wine throughout Europe, it was the Phoenicians who first mastered fermentation. The Romans absorbed much of Phoenician and Carthaginian culture, including winemaking, through their conquests in the Punic Wars. This cultural assimilation led to the widespread belief that the Romans invented wine.

Romans in Seville: Hispalis and Olive Oil

Arriving in Seville in the 2nd century BC, the Romans renamed the city Colonia Iulia Romula Hispalensis, later shortened to Hispalis, preserving the original meaning of “flat land” from SPAL. The Romans made significant contributions to Spanish gastronomy, notably introducing olive oil, known as Spain’s “golden liquid.” Although the Phoenicians cultivated olives, the Romans perfected olive oil production, laying the foundation for Spain’s current status as the world’s leading olive oil producer.

The Introduction of Rice and Paella

Another key Roman contribution was rice, a staple brought from their eastern conquests. Although the Romans struggled to cultivate it, Spain eventually became the top rice producer in Europe. This grain became the base of paella, a signature Spanish dish whose origins trace back to the Muslims, who perfected rice cultivation techniques and introduced various spices to the region.

Muslim Influence: Spices and the Evolution of Paella

The Muslims conquered Seville in 712 AD, renaming it Isbilya, which, like its Latin predecessor, means “flat land.” Their influence on Spanish cuisine is profound, particularly through the introduction of spices such as cumin, saffron, and cinnamon. They also brought with them the concept of a rice dish called Bakaya (meaning “leftovers” in classic Arabic), which evolved into the modern paella we know today.

Cultural Melting Pot and the Legacy of Al-Andalus

During their rule, the Muslims of Al-Andalus adapted to local resources, creating dishes from accessible ingredients like vegetables, rabbits, and snails. Paella, once a humble leftover meal, became a regional specialty, varying by location and using fresh, local produce.

This historical journey through Seville’s culinary influences sets the stage for our visit to the first bar, where we’ll taste the legacy of these ancient civilizations firsthand.

Casa Oliva: The First Stop

Casa Oliva is located at Calle San Jacinto, 73, and serves as the first stop on your tapas tour. After settling in, we begin by asking if everyone drinks alcohol. If so, a glass of Manzanilla, a traditional dry Sherry wine, will be served. For non-drinkers, options like juices, soda, or water are available.

Manzanilla Wine: A Unique Experience

Before you taste the wine, we guide you through the proper way to enjoy it. The first step is to deeply sniff the wine, then hold your breath before tasting it and exhaling through your nose. This allows you to appreciate both the aroma and flavor. Manzanilla, the driest of the Sherries, is an ideal aperitif or enjoyed during meals. It’s known for its low sugar content, which contrasts with sweeter varieties of Sherry.

Sherry Characteristics and Fortification

Sherry is a fortified wine, meaning extra alcohol is added during the aging process. This fortification allows the wine to last much longer than regular wines, up to 6-8 months. Manzanilla, in particular, is made with three main types of grapes: Palomino, Moscatel, and Pedro Ximénez. Palomino grapes are specific to the “Sherry Triangle” in Cádiz, and the sweetness of Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez grapes is achieved by drying them under the sun, much like raisins.

Espinacas con Garbanzos

Spinach with Chickpeas is made with spinach, chickpeas, garlic, onions, and a blend of spices like cumin, saffron, and sweet paprika. This dish has deep roots in Middle Eastern cuisine, with its origins traced back to the 12th century when it was introduced to Spain by Arab invaders.

Pisto

Pisto is made with oil, tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, onions, bell peppers, Italian peppers, garlic, and sweet paprika. It’s similar to dishes like ShakshukaCaponata, and Ratatouille, which are all variations of vegetable-based stews. While Shakshuka typically features tomatoes and eggs, Pisto can be served with or without an egg, which is optional. Pisto is more similar to Caponata and Ratatouille, but the key difference is in how the vegetables are cooked. In Caponata, the vegetables are fried and served cold, while in Ratatouille, they are cooked separately to preserve their texture. However, Pisto is a one-pot dish where all the ingredients are cooked together, and the tomatoes are pureed instead of roasted. All of these dishes share the same concept: simple, hearty, peasant food.

Menudo: A Southern Delicacy

The final tapa served is Menudo, a traditional stew made with pork tripe. Once a dish born out of necessity, menudo is now a beloved part of Southern Spanish cuisine. It’s rich in flavor, with aromatic herbs, spices, and vegetables, and has a unique history, once being known as “Gitano” because it was commonly made by the Roma people.

Tinto de Verano: A Refreshing Spanish Drink

Tinto de Verano is a popular Spanish drink, often enjoyed in bars across the country. It’s made with red wine and soda, typically lemon soda for a sweet, refreshing taste. If you prefer something less sweet, it can also be made with club soda. Locals rarely drink sangria in bars, as it is more of a homemade drink. Tinto de Verano is the go-to beverage for a casual drink in the summer, hence the name “Tinto de Verano” (Red Wine of Summer).

Snails: A Spanish Delicacy

Snails, served in a tomato-based sauce with cumin, are a common dish in southern Spain. You can eat them using a toothpick or, for a more traditional approach, by sucking them straight from the shell. This dish highlights the importance of the sauce, much like escargot in other cultures. Snails in Spain are available year-round, unlike the smaller seasonal snails found in Morocco or Turkey.

Quails: A Local Favorite

Quails are a beloved dish in southern Spain. These small birds are marinated in a secret sauce and then fried. The exact ingredients of the marinade remain a mystery, but it’s believed to contain common Spanish herbs and spices like oregano, thyme, rosemary, and cumin. They are a highlight of this bar’s menu and a dish loved by locals.

Tapas: A Social Tradition

Tapas are an integral part of Spanish social life. Typically enjoyed on weekends, tapas are small dishes shared with friends and family. Contrary to what some might think, tapas are not a daily practice but rather a special treat. The idea is to hop between several tapas bars, trying different dishes at each place. Tapas meals usually extend late into the evening, and the last bar of the night is often the farthest from home. It’s all about enjoying food, drinks, and company.

The Legend of Tapas

One popular legend about tapas tells the story of King Alfonso XIII, who stopped at a bar in Jerez while traveling through southern Spain. Concerned about dust and insects getting into the king’s glass of sherry, the bar owner covered the glass with a slice of ham. The word “tapa” comes from the Spanish verb “tapar,” meaning “to cover.” This legend, though unconfirmed, highlights the social role tapas play in Spanish culture.

Montadito de Pringa: A Hearty Sandwich

Montadito de Pringa is a sandwich made from leftover meats from a traditional Spanish stew called “Cocido.” This stew includes vegetables, chickpeas, and a variety of meats like pork, beef, and chicken. The leftover meats are mixed with “Manteca Colorá” (red lard) to create a flavorful filling for the sandwich. Though heavy, it’s a must-try for those interested in authentic Spanish flavors.

Tinto de Verano: A Refreshing Spanish Drink

Tinto de Verano is a popular Spanish drink, often enjoyed in bars across the country. It’s made with red wine and soda, typically lemon soda for a sweet, refreshing taste. If you prefer something less sweet, it can also be made with club soda. Locals rarely drink sangria in bars, as it is more of a homemade drink. Tinto de Verano is the go-to beverage for a casual drink in the summer, hence the name “Tinto de Verano” (Red Wine of Summer).

Pisto

Pisto is made with oil, tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, onions, bell peppers, Italian peppers, garlic, and sweet paprika. It’s similar to dishes like Shakshuka, Caponata, and Ratatouille, which are all variations of vegetable-based stews. While Shakshuka typically features tomatoes and eggs, Pisto can be served with or without an egg, which is optional. Pisto is more similar to Caponata and Ratatouille, but the key difference is in how the vegetables are cooked. In Caponata, the vegetables are fried and served cold, while in Ratatouille, they are cooked separately to preserve their texture. However, Pisto is a one-pot dish where all the ingredients are cooked together, and the tomatoes are pureed instead of roasted. All of these dishes share the same concept: simple, hearty, peasant food.

Champiñones con Alioli (Mushrooms with Aioli)

Aioli is a Catalan sauce made with garlic and oil. In Spain, we call it “alioli,” but in the US, it is pronounced as aioli. The sauce is made without eggs, contrary to what some people might think. You mash the garlic and oil together in a kitchen mortar until you get a creamy texture. Although this aioli is green, as they add parsley, it’s not a typical part of the recipe.

Calamares con Salsa Verde (Squid with Green Sauce)

Next, we have Calamares con Salsa Verde (squid with green sauce). The green sauce is made of garlic, parsley, and oil, similar to aioli but not blended. The squid is cooked perfectly here, so it’s not chewy, but many people don’t enjoy the texture. The garlic flavor of the salsa verde helps mask the texture.

Espinacas con Garbanzos

One of the standout dishes is Espinacas con Garbanzos (Spinach with Chickpeas), made with spinach, chickpeas, garlic, onions, and a blend of spices like cumin, saffron, and sweet paprika. This dish has deep roots in Middle Eastern cuisine, with its origins traced back to the 12th century when it was introduced to Spain by Arab invaders.

Carrillada (Pork Cheeks)

This dish is called Carrillada or Caldereta and is made from pork cheeks. The name “Caldereta” comes from the word Caldero, which refers to a traditional metal pot, but the dish was originally cooked in a ceramic pot. Ceramic pots were ideal for cooking tougher meats like bull meat, which required long cooking times at a constant temperature. Nowadays, pressure cookers are used for a quicker process.

In the 19th century, bull meat was widely consumed in Seville, with about 20 different dishes made from various parts of the bull. Today, only three dishes remain: Caldereta de Toro (bull’s loin), Cola de Toro (bull’s tail), and Criadillas (bull’s testicles). Though the texture of these meats differs, the cooking method and sauce are similar. The sauce for these dishes is a rich, tomato-based blend with red wine, sweet sherry, cumin, sweet paprika, saffron, and spices like cinnamon or nutmeg. This powerful sauce helps to mask the texture of the meat and enhances the flavor. While pork cheeks are tender and melt in your mouth here, not all places prepare them with the same care, and the sauce makes a big difference in texture.

Menudo: A Southern Delicacy

The final tapa served is Menudo, a traditional stew made with pork tripe. Once a dish born out of necessity, menudo is now a beloved part of Southern Spanish cuisine. It’s rich in flavor, with aromatic herbs, spices, and vegetables, and has a unique history, once being known as “Gitano” because it was commonly made by the Roma people.

Ugly Food Doesn’t Exist

Food is a matter of perspective, shaped by culture, tradition, and personal experiences. What might seem unattractive to one person could be a cherished dish to another. As long as we approach food with an open mind, understanding the culture behind it, we can learn a lot from trying new flavors. Embrace the diversity of food, and the experience will be all the more enriching.

Things to Do in Triana

Triana is a residential area, not as tourist-heavy as other parts of Seville, but it offers its own charm. If you want to explore more, I recommend checking out the Triana Market for local goods. You can enter through this door or cross the bridge for easy access.

Ceramics Museum

At the end of this street, you’ll find the Museum of Ceramics (Museo de la Cerámica), housed in an old kiln. It’s a quick visit, and it highlights Triana’s significant ceramic heritage. If you’re looking for an authentic souvenir, I suggest buying ceramics from this area, as it’s handmade and unique.

Best Bakery in Triana

For dessert or sweet treats, make sure to visit Manu Jara, the best bakery in town. They have two locations: one at the start of Calle Pureza, and the other inside the Triana Market. A great way to enjoy their pastries is to take them to Calle Betis, where you can relax at a café with the best view of Seville from across the river while sipping a coffee.

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